On the Road with Fred and Barb - Newsletter #6

June 2-4,2003 Fort Nelson to Muncho Lake

The scenery has definitely improved since leaving Fort Nelson. After an initial 5 miles of construction and gravel road, it was pretty smooth sailing. Actually, the gravel road was smooth - just very dusty. The hiway between Fort Nelson and Muncho Lake was quite hilly and we finally saw the snow covered peaks of the Northern Rockies. Summit Lake, the highest point on the Alaska Hiway at 4250 ft., was still frozen over. There were signs warning of Caribou on the road and the Milepost said to watch for Stone Mountain Sheep. Didn't see any Caribou but there were a few sheep that we had to stop for as they crossed the road.

We camped at a beautiful spot in J & H Wilderness campground that is right on the shore of Muncho Lake. This is one of 4 campgrounds along the lake, including 2 provincial parks (no hookups). Much to our surprise, when we went to find a grocery store to buy milk and bread, we learned there aren't any. Now we had just driven almost 5 hours from Ft. Nelson and there were no grocery stores since leaving there. And the next town is Watson Lake, another 3 hours north. We are truly in the Wilderness! Fortunately there were two gas stations here but that's about it. The campground owners told us they have groceries trucked in each week from Edmonton! They don't even sell fishing licenses here - you have to get them back in Fort Nelson! But that's not going to stop Fred. When he heard they catch 20 pound lake trout here, and now is the best time to fish, he's going anyway.

Muncho Lake is a gorgeous, blue/green glacial lake that is 7 miles long and 1 mile wide. It was overcast and very windy and cold when we arrived but our second day dawned clear and sunny. The views down the lake were worth staying for.

We decided to drive 30 miles north with the cars for a soak in the pools at Liard Hot Springs. What a surprise to find a tropical, fern covered area in the middle of the mountain wilderness. From the parking lot you walk down a boardwalk to one of two natural sulphur spring pools. The first pool ranged from 100 degrees to 120 degrees depending where you went in. The furthest pool was only 104 degrees. Both felt wonderful. And they were free.

When we got back the men decided to try their luck with fishing. But this time they didn't have any. The lake is so clear you can see the trout swimming around. But guess they weren't hungry because even tossing the bait into the water didn't lure them to bite.The owners of the campground had told us when we checked in that they would make sure we got some fish and they were true to their word. One of their friends, who must have learned the secret, had caught more than they needed and gave us a real nice 4-5 pound lake trout. They even gave us a copy of the recipe they use to cook it. After cleaning out the insides, we sprinkled it with spices, onions, butter and lemon juice, wrapped it in foil, and threw it on the BBQ. It was so good. Once cooked, it turned pink and tasted and looked like salmon.

We have now crossed into the Yukon Territories and are staying in Watson Lake. More about that later.

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